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USA - NEW MEXICO - SANTA FE : AWAY ..... TO SANTA FE by Bob Pirillo   Santa Fe is off the beaten track, but well worth the effort. Fly into Albuquerque, New Mexico, and rent a car or take the Santa Fe shuttle for the hour-long ride. Although the stark scenery along the way is jolting, by the time you reach your destination, high on a 7,000-foot plateau, the topography completely changes and you find yourself in an amazingly verdant town at the foot of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. In mid-summer, golden ripe apricots fill the trees and hollyhocks bloom everywhere. While the daytime temperature soared, the dry desert air ensured that it was always comfortable. The town center is compact and pleasant to see on foot. The Plaza is a tree-filled park, around which are galleries, restaurants, hotels, and the Governor’s Palace, the oldest government building in the US, which has been in continuous use since 1610. In addition to the galleries, the Native Americans set up their wares; silver, turquoise and pottery on their blankets in the shade of the overhang of the Governor’s Palace. The quality of the artworks offered by Santa Fe’s numerous galleries and street vendors is unsurpassed. Whether painting, sculpture or Native American jewelry, weavings and pottery, the selection is dazzling. Bring plenty of cash, though, because quality like this doesn’t come cheap. Canyon Road, an art lover's paradise, is also nearby. This ancient two-mile long winding road is home to many galleries, antiques shops and several restaurants. Some of the picturesque historic adobe structures along the road date back to the early 17th century. Even if you’re not in the buying mode, come and soak up the serenity and beauty, the cool shaded gardens and the rich vibrant colors of the southwest. There are many types of accommodations in Santa Fe, from motels and cabins to luxury hotels. The Inn at Loretto is a great choice for high end lodging. Located three short blocks from the Plaza, the Inn is a beautiful traditional adobe structure. Our comfortable room had all the amenities and a spacious terrace, which we used often. The Inn offers indoor and outdoor dining, a spa, boutiques and a lovely outdoor pool. You can also relax and have a cocktail in front of the fireplace in the lounge. The Inn is adjacent to the Loretto Chapel, built in the 1870s, which boasts a “miraculous” staircase. After the architect died, it was discovered that no one knew how he intended to build the circular staircase leading to the choir loft. A mysterious carpenter appeared and completed the staircase without nails, and with no visible means of support. The carpenter disappeared before he could be paid or thanked. If you’d rather stay outside of town, or are fond of horseback riding, The Bishop’s Lodge just three miles from the town center, is glorious. The property was originally the retirement home of Bishop Lamy, a local legend who was immortalized in Willa Cather’s “Death Comes for the Archbishop”. They have their own stables and over a thousand acres of riding trails through the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and the Santa Fe National Forest. Moonlight rides are held monthly. The main ingredient in New Mexican food is the chile and it is one of the reasons why Santa Fe is famous for its local cuisine. Both green and red version can be mild to very hot. In some restaurants you’ll be asked if you prefer "red or green", and be warned of the heat content. Although the food can be on the fiery side, it is much more complex than just heat. Some culinary highlights were the Plaza, a glorious diner right on the main square serving traditional local dishes in generous portions since 1947. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, this spot is very popular so be prepared to wait. For a splurge, I recommend the Old House Restaurant (El Dorado Hotel) where Chef Martin Rios serves fantastic food. Or try O’Keeffe Café where Executive Chef Tom Lewis creates a great dining experience. It's located adjacent to the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum and has a lovely outdoor dining area. Santa Fe is a cultural wonderland and home to twelve museums. All have exhibits that are related to the area, whether American Indian arts and culture; both ancient and contemporary, archeology, or natural history. The O’Keeffe Museum houses the works of Georgia O’Keeffe, who lived and worked in the area for decades, until her death in 1986 at the age of 98. The Museum of International Folk Art is considered one of the finest collections of folk art in the world, and there’s also the Santa Fe Children’s Museum where hands-on participation is encouraged. The annual Indian Market, held in late August, is the town's busiest event. Over 400 of the best Indian artists in the United States are selected to display and sell their works on the Plaza. Serious buyers are ready before dawn to snatch up the best pieces, but there's plenty to go around. Located in a natural bowl just north of town, the Santa Fe Opera House is open to the elements on the sides to allow views of the spectacular desert sunsets, but covered above to give shelter from the rain. The opera season opens in early July and runs through the summer. The area surrounding Santa Fe is filled with plenty of day trip possibilities. Indian pueblos (villages) dot the landscape. All New Mexican pueblos hold an annual fiesta to celebrate their patron saint. These are religious ceremonies, not tourists attractions, although tourists are welcome provided they respect the religious rites and follow the rules which prohibit drinking alcohol, and in most cases photographing, sketching or recording the activities. For information on events contact the Santa Fe Visitors Bureau. Bandelier National Park which was the home to the Anasazi tribe and their remarkable cave dwellings is also nearby, and is one of the area’s major attractions. The 40-mile drive to Bandelier takes one through different terrain ranging from flat desert to lush forests to breathtaking canyons. Once inside, the park is secluded, green and peaceful. On one side of the valley an enormous sheer cliff is dotted with cave dwellings. Most are high above the ground (to keep out unwanted guests and to protect their food supply), but some are accessible by a rustic ladder, or a series of ladders. Take a deep breath, hold on tight, and don’t look down. It’s worth the climb to get an idea about life in the wilderness many centuries ago. There's a visitor's center where you can get maps and trail information and a small museum. It wasn't until the drive back to the airport through the vast open desert that I realized Santa Fe was someplace special. I'd always heard it was remarkable, but it's the sort of place that must be experienced firsthand. Having finally made the trip, I can only say that I look forward to returning often. Photo courtesy Bob Pirillo
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