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USA - MONTANA : A HERITAGE OF ART AND ADVENTURE by Toni Dabbs   Great Falls, Montana, has several things in common with St. Louis, Missouri.In April 1805, Meriwether Lewis and William Clark departed St. Louis on their well documented expedition to find a practical transportation link between the Louisiana Territory and the Oregon Country on the Pacific coast. Canoeing up the Missouri River, they met an obstacle in mid-June when they encountered a series of waterfalls that were at once magnificent and formidable. Although the explorers recorded their admiration of the sight, their party had to work for three weeks portaging their heavy canoes and equipment 18 miles around where the city of Great Falls now stands.
Today, it’s hard to say which connection is most honored in Great Falls. On the outskirts of town, the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail Interpretive Center sits on a bluff between Crooked Falls and Rainbow Falls, overlooking the Missouri River. A 28-minute film provides a comprehensive overview of the expedition and the necessary background to fully appreciate the center’s displays. Linking the center and the city is River’s Edge Trail, which parallels the Missouri to form a recreational corridor for such outdoor activities as walking, jogging, biking or skating. A variety of wildflowers (wild roses, gayfeathers, blue flax) and birds (yellow warblers, great blue herons, red-tailed hawks) may be spotted along the 13-mile trail, which also offers views of Black Eagle Falls. Near the trail is the Great Falls Visitor Information Center, where a sculpture depicts Lewis and Clark gazing across the river. Charlie Russell has a statue in town, too. It marks the entrance to the C.M. Russell Museum complex, which contains the most complete collection of Russell artwork and memorabilia in the world. The basis for the museum are items donated by the Trigg family, friends and neighbors of the Russells who received a number of illustrated letters, sketches, paintings, sculptures and other works by Charlie over the years. Also on the grounds and open to visitors are the Russells’ two-story frame house built in 1900 and Charlie’s log cabin studio built in 1903. The studio, where Russell painted an array of Old West subjects with both affection and humor, looks as if the artist might walk in and resume work any minute. It’s filled with authentic cowboy gear and Indian artifacts that he used as models. History is a recurring theme in and around Great Falls. The original town site is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, and a self-guided walking tour allows visitors to stroll its tree-lined boulevards at their leisure, viewing buildings constructed between 1885 and 1945. Another heritage building is at the center of the community’s cultural life. Paris Gibson Square, named for the city’s founder, is a sandstone structure built as a high school in 1896. It now houses the Great Falls Center for Contemporary Arts, with changing exhibits that emphasize the cultural diversity of the area. On the east side of town is the Malmstrom Air Force Base Museum, which focuses on the Minuteman Missile that was the base’s primary mission. It also displays a selection of aircraft on loan from the Air Force Museum at Wright-Patterson Air Force Base in Ohio. About 12 miles southwest of Great Falls is Ulm Pishkun State Park, site of one of the oldest, longest and most used buffalo jumps in the United States. Exhibits at the Visitor’s Center explain how, for more than 1,500 years, native peoples stampeded buffalo over the steep cliffs, slaughtering the animals for use as food, tools and shelter. About the same distance north of the city is Benton Lake National Wildlife Refuge, encompassing 5,000 acres of Missouri River marshlands. More than 200 bird species live at the refuge year round, with tundra swans, snow geese and other migrants passing through in spring and fall. Located along the highway between Helena, Montana, and Calgary, Alberta, with vast plains to the east and the Rocky Mountains to the west, Great Falls is surrounded by scenic vistas. Its modest size and easy-to-negotiate grid pattern of streets make it a pleasant stopover. SCRIBBLES ETCETERAS • Bert and Ernie’s Saloon and Eatery has a varied menu that makes it a favorite for business lunches and family dinners. • Great Falls Civic Center, located in the heart of downtown, offers a year-round schedule of concerts, plays, ballets and more. • Galerie Trinitas and Chapel, on the campus of the University of Great Falls, displays stained glass and art works in various other media by Sister Mary Morin Trinitas, head of the school’s art department from 1933 to 1965. • Montana River Outfitters, headquartered in Great Falls, arranges guided canoeing, kayaking and rafting trips for adventurers of all levels. Photo:Courtesy Toni Dabbs
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