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USA - HAWAII - MAUI - LAHAINA : FAMED MAUI WHALING TOWN
by Keli’i Brown



Take a trim, tidy New England whaling town, plunk it down in the middle of the blue Pacific, sketch in some rainbow-crowned mountains, add some palm trees, throw in the biggest Buddha outside Asia, a magnificent banyan tree, and a history that reads like an epic novel – and you might come close to defining Lahaina.

Once the royal capital of the Hawaiian kingdom and the seat of power for the Kamehameha dynasty, in the early nineteenth century, Lahaina became the lusty port of the Yankee whaling fleet.

As many as 400 ships at a time were berthed in the harbor spilling as many as 1500 sailors ashore. The whalemen said there was no God west of the Horn and conducted themselves accordingly – until a band of puritanical missionaries arrived from New England and spoiled the party. The battles between the reverends and the revelers became legendary. Among the sailors was Herman Melville, who immortalized the era in his classic novel Moby Dick.



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The missionaries built the first high school west of the Rocky Mountains, Lahainaluna, installed Hawaii's first printing press, and changed the course of Hawaiian history.

Lahaina today reflects its colorful past. Approximately 55 acres of the town have been set aside as historic districts containing several sites designated as National Historical Landmarks.

The weathered wooden buildings lining Front Street and its side streets are gallant survivors. In place of grog shops and ship's outfitters, they now house boutiques, art galleries and charming seafood restaurants where the demon rum comes in polite mai tais with little paper parasols planted in wedges of pineapple. The Baldwin Mission House is open to the public. Other historic buildings include the Masters and Mates Reading Room, the Seamen's Hospital, the waterfront court house, the old jail, Lahaina Prison, and many more.

Where whaling ships once laid anchor, a fleet of pleasure boats now bobs in the sun, waiting to take visitors on sunset dinner cruises, snorkel and dive sails, whale watching excursions and picnic trips to other islands. A lovingly restored replicate two-masted sailing brig, the Carthaginian, has become a whaling museum. Presiding over the harbor is the old Pioneer Inn with its fascinating nautical memorabilia.

On Sunday mornings, Hawaiian hymns still ring from Lahaina's churches, while incense curls heavenward from Asian temples.

Signage marks the historic sites. Walking maps are free and readily available.

Lahaina might be called Hawaii's Williamsburg, except that it is a living, vital town embracing both commerce and tourism.

It is the largest market for scrimshaw in the world, selling more of the etched fossil ivory than Nantucket, Cape Cod or the Pacific Northwest. Shops carry everything from antique collector's pieces to souvenir key chains.

More than 40 art galleries offer the works of both acclaimed local artists and masters such as Dali, Chagall and Miro. Art has become so popular that it is celebrated in a weekly event called "Friday Night is Art Night in Lahaina”. People stroll from gallery to gallery viewing the art, meeting artists, watching them work, listening to music and sampling the refreshments served by the galleries.

The restaurant scene has become equally exciting. Added to the menu of fine seafood establishments overlooking the harbor are a host of innovative restaurants specializing in Hawaii Regional Cuisine. Some are situated in meticulously restored historic buildings, all serve the freshest local ingredients prepared with a masterful blending of classic Asian and Continental techniques with the unique taste of paradise. The result is a culinary triumph that has been earning rave reviews from food critics around the country.

Lahaina is convenient to Maui's major resort areas and is connected to the Kaanapali Beach Resort by a complimentary trolley service, and restored sugarcane train, the Lahaina Kaanapali and Pacific Railroad.

On an island abounding in magic, Lahaina is the rabbit in the straw hat.


Photo courtesy Maui Visitors Bureau/Ron Dahlquist







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