MIDDLE EAST - JORDAN : THE AGELESS WONDER OF WADI RUM
by Julie Rikai Rickerd







"Vast and echoing and God-like" was the description used by T.E. Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia) for the largest and grandest of wadis (valleys) in southeastern Jordan – Wadi Rum, Valley of the Moon.

Excitement rose as we drove north and east from Aqaba, the legendary port on the Red Sea, to the very area where Lawrence, a second lieutenant in the British Army, had joined the Arab revolt against Ottoman Turkish rule in 1916.

"Past and present flowed over us like an uneddying river," Lawrence’s words, our feelings exactly.

In ancient times, some 30-million years ago, a cataclysm or violent geological change created the Great Rift Valley that reached from southern Turkey via Syria, the Jordan Valley, the Dead Sea, Wadi Arabah, the Red Sea into East Africa, tossing up layers of rocks in its path.

As the rocks settled in a series of intersecting fault lines in the Wadi Rum region, they developed complex and mysterious formations. Beneath our feet lay a 2,000-million year-old crust of pre-Cambrian granite.

As far as our eyes could see were multi-hued outcrops of sandstone and granite of various periods and textures, covered, in many instances, by velvety capes of sand; red Cambrian, pale grey ordovician and white silurian. The elements had also worked their magic in sculpting the rocks into countless dramatic shapes – pillars, arches, cones; a veritable moonscape, reminiscent only of the bizarre limestone formations which rise out of the Li River in the Kweilin region of southern China, minus the water and lush vegetation, of course.

Our introduction to recent history came as we paid homage to the seven pillars of wisdom located a few miles from the present day village of Wadi Rum, the mighty pillars of rock that have been immortalized by Lawrence as the title of his autobiography "The Seven Pillars of Wisdom".

Wadi Rum village is built around a small fort, the "Beau Geste", which used to be an outpost of the camel-riding Desert Patrol, now the camel-riding Bedouin Police. We were greeted by dozens of these camels of many shapes, colors and sizes, wandering about in relative freedom among the small stone buildings. They looked wise and very patient as they lounged about. We would find out all too soon why these proud beasts were called "the ships of the desert".

We were welcomed at the government rest house by a sumptuous feast of "maghlouba" (upside-down), a saffron rice and chickpea dish topped with chunks of chicken, lamb and onions. It was accompanied by bowls of humus (purée of chickpeas blended with pulped sesame seeds, lemon juice and garlic), baba ganoush (an eggplant purée), taboulleh (a salad of chopped parsley, onions, mint and bulgur), cucumbers in yogurt and piles of warm pita bread.

Restored in body, we were ready to nourish our souls. As tempting as the camels were to carry us into the desert, we chose the back of a four-by-four truck to transport us to our adventure. Like ships, camels do take getting use to as they lope across the sand, swaying their riders to and fro in wave-like fashion. Not recommended after a large lunch.

A short drive later along the desert floor, 1,000-meters above sea level, surrounded by sandstone crags up to 750-meters high, we suddenly came upon the Springs of Lawrence, a water reservoir built by the British Army 80 years ago. As we approached the springs, we noticed two large black Bedouin tents nearby. We were immediately overwhelmed by the image of Lawrence riding alongside Sherif Hussein and Auda, warrior leader of the Bedouin Howeitats, at the head of an Arab army, 30,000-strong, on its mission to overthrow the Turks in Aqaba.

The Bedouin families before us were the descendants of the Howeitats, one of 10 Bedouin tribes still living in what is now the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan. Although their lives are no longer as completely nomadic as in the past and they inhabit villages during the winter, in the summer months they carry on the tradition of living on the land. Our guide insisted that we test the Bedouin’s reputed hospitality to strangers as he led us to the tents.

We were instantly surrounded by men of all ages, welcoming us. The women and female children disappeared just as quickly to their hidden side of the tent so as to avoid being seen by the male visitors. Mats were laid out on the ground for us and rather than the customary mint tea or cardamom coffee, we were offered cups of delicious goat yogurt.

Conversation was sparse, as they spoke no English, but there were smiles and stares aplenty. Making our weary way back to the truck amidst the goats, sheep, dogs, donkeys and camels, the women among us were allowed to thank the ladies who remained hidden from view.

We drove on, drinking in the awesome desert vistas stretching all around us, the miles and miles of magical landscape that enveloped us and seemed to go on forever. We stopped to walk in the warm sand and to rejoice in the palpable silence. In the spring, this same, seemingly barren, dry terrain is a colorful palette of 2,000 species of wildflowers and home to hares, foxes, gerbils and sand cats. Larks, rock sparrows, rosefinches and vultures travel the skies.

We near an almost invisible "siq" (fissure) in a cliff that leads us into inner, open spaces used as shelters by ancient tribes and the Arab army to hide from enemies who wanted to dominate the lucrative trading routes of the past. A lone fig tree grows out of the sand and oleander cascades down from the rock face. Nabatean and Thamudic inscriptions and engravings have been found on the rocks, depicting animals and hunting scenes as well as prehistoric maps of the area, confirming their historic origins.

We pass locals on camels as we continue to be dazzled by the topography. Bands of quartzite and shale turn the rocks into rainbows of color. We relish the warm, soft sand beneath our feet.

Hiking and climbing have become popular here, the greatest challenge being the scaling of Jebel Rum, the Wadi’s highest peak at 1,754-meters. Guides are essential as the sturdiness of the rock faces are deceptive to the uninitiated. Two- to three-day camping safaris by camel offer indescribable spectacles of multi-hued sunsets and star-stocked havens. Hot-air balloon rides can be taken to float high above the mystical desert and watch the camel races below.

Fortunately, plans for permanent tourist tents and four-star hotels are presently on hold and have not, as yet, interfered with the seductive enchantment of the ageless wonder of Wadi Rum. It remains a spiritual, awe-inspiring, natural phenomenon, a haven of beauty and mystery. As Lawrence said: "Rumm’s (sic) glory would not let a man waste himself in feverish regret."


Photo: courtesy Jordan Tourism Board






SCRIBBLES ETCETERAS

Getting to Jordan Travelers can reach Jordan by air, sea or land. Jordan has three airports, a good network of international and national roads, and a port in Aqaba. Daily buses, taxis and "service" cabs link Jordan with Iraq, Saudi Arabia, Syria, Egypt, Lebanon, Turkey, Israel, the West Bank and Gaza. A passenger train service operates weekly between Jordan and Syria. A twice-daily passenger and car ferry service links Jordan's port of Aqaba with the Red Sea port of Nuweibe' in Egypt.  

Royal Jordanian Airlines has become one of the largest passenger carriers in the Middle East region, with daily services to destinations in the U.S., Europe, the Middle East and North Africa and the Far East. Amman's Queen Alia International Airport offers state-of-the-art facilities in two spacious passenger terminals linked by an extensive Duty Free shopping mall.

Climate Jordan has a Mediterranean climate for comfortable year-round travel.
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