EUROPE - SWITZERLAND : THE TALE OF WILLIAM TELL RETOLD
by Winnie Graham







William Tell is probably the world’s oldest hero.

Most are familiar with his story. It has been featured in children’s books, was bolstered by French revolutionaries in the 1790s, retold by Germany’s “Shakespeare” (Friederich Schiller) in the early 1800s and inspired Rossini’s famous overture. In fact, the galloping pace of that catchy piece was eventually to become the theme tune for a Lone Ranger TV series.

But it’s not the story of the apple and the arrow alone that lives on in the minds and hearts of people. Tell’s stand against tyranny was to lead to the creation of the world’s first democratic government. Switzerland celebrated the 700th anniversary of its democracy in 1991. The Swiss Confederacy, then comprising just three cantons, came into being on August 1, 1291, soon after William Tell took aim at the apple on his son’s head and sliced it in half.

His courage in refusing to give way to tyranny has made him an icon for generations of people in their struggle for independence. Yet, for all that, the Swiss aren’t quite sure that the man existed.

For me, the full story of William Tell unraveled at the Swiss Travel Mart (STM) in Switzerland recently when our hosts arranged a visit to the region closely associated with him. The STM was held in Lucerne, a city wedged between lakes and mountains. The bus and boat trip through this scenic wonderland was in effect a journey in the steps of the legendary marksman whose home was in Burglen, close to the villages where those historic happenings unfolded 700-plus years ago.

“Was he for real?” someone in the group asked.

“There is no written evidence,” our guide, Tilla Gerspacher, apologized, “but he must have existed. We know where he lived, where the tyrannical bailiff hung his hat at Altdorf and even the place where Tell escaped to lie in wait for the bailiff. It’s all here, in this area.”

At that moment we were standing on a landing about to board a steamer which was to take us to the famous Tell landmarks. It was a good place to pause and look at the scenery. A vast expanse of water stretched before us, the steep mountains on both sides of the Ruess valley covered in forests. Crooked villages, centuries old, hugged the rugged shores of the waterway.

Our first stop was Altdorf where a statue of William Tell and his son dominates the village square. It took a minute for the impact of the scene to penetrate. The story I had first heard as a child came to life. It was here, where I was standing, that Rudolph of Habsburg had once sat in judgment under a linden tree and, more tellingly, where Tell had refused to doff his cap at the bailiff’s hat.

It was here that he tried to dissuade his tormentor from forcing him to chance his son’s life and where he had been forced to raise his crossbow and aim at the apple. Clouds scuttled across a clear sky. The moment passed.

There before me was a statue of William Tell and his son, sculpted by Richard Kissling in 1895. It has been placed in front of a medieval residential tower that marks the spot where once the Habsburg ruler sat under that linden tree, and more important, where Tell shot at that apple.

There is a fresco behind the statue depicting the Schachen valley where Tell is said to have been born and where a William Tell Museum has been created featuring a comprehensive collection of historical documents covering a period of 600 years, along with a variety of objects relating to the Swiss freedom fighter.

Although the town of Altdorf must have changed considerably in the 700-plus years since that historic event, it is still small enough to visualize Tell being bound and tossed into a boat to be taken across the lake to prison. His feat in splitting the apple had not saved him. The bailiff had noted a second arrow in his quiver and wanted to know the reason for it.

“If I had killed my son with my first arrow I would have used to second to kill you,” the cheeky marksman replied. It was not the sort of remark to appease his captor. Luck, however, was on his side. A violent storm arose on the lake and the vessel carrying Tell to prison threatened to sink the vessel. He was freed so that he could help steer the boat to safety. Instead, he aimed for a rocky ledge, snatched his crossbow and kicked the boat back into the raging waters. Tell scrambled up mountain forests towards Kussnacht where he knew Gessler, the bailiff, was headed. There he waited his chance to use that second arrow.

The villain dead, the story usually ends there. Historical records fill in the gaps. When Tell took a stand, fellow Swiss from the cantons of Uri, Schwyz and Unterwalden realized that if they did not fight back they would be eternally subjugated.

Ten men from the three cantons met on August 1, 1291, and vowed to unite as brothers and cast off their oppressors. They did just this at the battle of Morgarten. Battle standards from the famous clash are housed in the Altdorf town hall along with other priceless treasures – items well worth seeing in that Switzerland is probably the only country that has a stated policy of neutrality. It earned that right in battle and defends its right to total independence. It is one of the reasons why the landlocked country is not a member of the European Union. It is solely responsible for its own destiny.

Is Tell real or mythical? Certainly his spirit lives on and at least three chapels have been built in his memory. The oldest is in Burglen, his birthplace. It includes a fresco dating back to 1588 illustrating the Tell legend. There is another at Tell’s Platte on the lake near Sisikon where the hero is said to have leapt from the bailiff’s boat, and a third in Altdorf, near his statue on the square.

There is another memorial at Hohle Gasse (Hollow Way) near Kussnacht am Rigi where Tell shot the bailiff, and one at Rutli meadow where in 1291 the founding fathers took their vow. For those interested is this early hero, they are worth seeing.

But the Tell route isn’t all history and no entertainment. Though we followed in his steps by bus and lake steamer, hikers with time can do it more leisurely by walking round the lakes and relaxing at the picturesque villages.

Some years ago when development plans were mooted for the region, the local population took advantage of their democratic right and voted overwhelmingly against further building construction on the lakeside. Instead, walking trails some 35 miles in extent, were built, with each of the three cantons represented along the route. The beauty of the area has remained intact and unchanged through the centuries.


WHAT NOT TO MISS IN THE LUCERNE REGION

Anyone planning a trip to Lucerne should check the dates of the next performances of Schiller’s William Tell play presented in the Altdorf Tell Theatre in summer every three years.

The Lucerne Summer Festival in 2009 takes place from August 8 to September 19, while the World Band Festival follows from September 26 to October 4 with the Lucerne Blues Festival taking place in September. Lozarn lacht (visit www.comedy.ch) comes in early November and the festival of the Piano later that month. And, for those who love markets, be there in December for the Christmas Market at Lucerne’s Muhlenplatz.

Lucerne is a city of tourist highlights ranging from churches to towers. One not to be missed is the Lion Monument, considered one of the world’s most famous sculptures. It was hewn out of solid rock in memory of the heroic death of the Swiss Guards at the Tuileries in Paris in the late 18th century. American author Mark Twain described the Lion of Lucerne as “the saddest and most moving piece of rock in the world.” And that, indeed, it is.





Photo: courtesy Winnie Graham




SCRIBBLES ETCETERAS


WHAT TO EAT?
Try Lucerne’s traditional pasta and potato dish, Alplemagronen. In a city known for its award winning restaurants, this is something very tasty – and different. And, of course, there is always cheese fondue – an absolutely must for cheese lovers.

HOW TO GET AROUND?

Get a Swiss Pass. It allows the holder to travel on trains, municipal buses, post buses and certain boats for a given number of days, and includes admission to more than 400 museums in Switzerland. It’s the most convenient way to get around. Visit www.worldtravel.co.za

Winnie Graham was the guest of Switzerland Tourism and Swiss International Airlines. For more information visit: www.MySwitzerland.com


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