EUROPE - ITALY : THE PICTURE POSTCARD ALLURE OF THE ITALIAN RIVIERA
by Bob Pirillo



After my initial visit, I have to wonder why Genoa had not usually been thought of as a tourist destination. Since 1992, when the Acquario Di Genova, one of the largest aquariums in Europe, was built to coincide with the 500th anniversary of Columbus’s discovery of the Americas in 1492, tourism has made its mark.

Today, the Old Port, a combination of ancient and ultra modern, is alive at all times of the day and night with visitors, restaurants, nightclubs, museums and a myriad of attractions. An unexpectedly tourist free city, it waits to be explored and savored in relative peace without the typical crowds. The fact that it is not a part of most itineraries explains why you’ll find hotels and restaurants more reasonably priced than in other Italian cities.

Genoa is Italy’s biggest port and one of Europe’s major ports, as well. The city wraps itself around the bustling harbor like an amphitheater. The old town, the largest historic center in Europe, is a fascinating labyrinth of alleyways, stairs, hills and streets that just begs to be discovered. You’ll see art everywhere; faded frescoes on facades, fine marble friezes inserted above doorways and entire buildings painted in trompe l’oeil. Amidst the maze you will find Via Garibaldi, where 13 palaces built in the 16th century line the street, a sign of the great wealth and power that existed in Genoa. Three of the palaces – the Palazzos Bianco, Rossi and Tursi – form an art museum complex that exemplifies these masterpieces of Genoese architecture. You can also visit many beautiful churches; in particular, the black and white striped 12th century Cathedral of San Lorenzo, the most famous example of Ligurian Gothic architecture.

We spent a good deal of time exploring the old town at various times of day and night, and despite warnings in several guide books, never felt uneasy or at risk. The arcaded area adjacent to the waterfront is the place to go for fresh local seafood, and at lunchtime the mouthwatering displays of fried fish draw crowds of natives that wind out to the street. The cuisine in this part of Italy is based on seafood and fresh herbs; primarily basil and marjoram. Be sure to try the Genovese pesto, a sauce made from fresh basil, pine nuts, garlic, salt and parmesan cheese, which is traditionally served on pasta with potatoes and string beans. Octopus and potato salad is another typical dish that should be sampled. Located right on the harbor in a converted tobacco warehouse you’ll find the excellent restaurant I Tre Merli (three blackbirds), which serves Genoese specialties in a sophisticated urban setting with outdoor dining overlooking a dazzling display of yachts.

The Italian Riviera is divided into two sections – the Riviera di Levante, east of Genoa which includes Portofino and the Cinque Terre, and on the western side, the Riviera di Ponente, which includes San Remo and extends to the French border.

Starting at San Remo on the Riviera di Ponente, this part of the coastline, which is closest to France, looks like what one would expect of the Riviera. Belle Epoque and Art Nouveau villas, palm trees, long stretches of sandy beaches with cabana filled beach clubs, and a wide promenade for walking along the blue Mediterranean. Flowers bloom everywhere, a reminder that this is where flowers are grown for their precious scents. San Remo and its neighboring towns, although cheek by jowl, are, thankfully, high rise free. There is a large lively old section, known as Pigna, where you’ll find the town’s bustling flea market on Saturdays, and a vast indoor food market brimming with local produce and wine. The skyline reveals an impressive onion domed Russian Orthodox Church built for visiting Russian aristocrats who were drawn to the mild climate and who helped make this stretch of coast a popular destination at the end of the 19th century. This is the place to go for night life, including the grand Casino Municipal which was filled to capacity when we visited.

If you’re fortunate enough to travel down the Riviera di Levante’s breathtaking coast by boat, stop at San Fruttuoso, a 13th century waterfront monastery set amid pines and olive trees, which is only accessible by boat or by a 2-hour walk on a foot path. There’s a small restaurant on this secluded cove with a pebbly beach. Continuing further down the coast, another spectacular approach by boat is right around the next bend. Portofino is a tiny town, no more than a handful of streets. The harbor is lined with colorful shops where you can spend large amounts of Euros at some of the world’s most expensive boutiques. After window shopping, relax in one of the cafes that line the waterfront and drink in the amazing natural beauty that has made this town a favorite with the world’s elite. Visit the 16th century Fortezza di San Giorgio, now known as Castle Brown, at the top of the hill which overlooks the tiny harbor or continue on to the lighthouse at the tip of the Punta di Portofino.

Still further down the coast you’ll find the terraced vineyards of Cinque Terre, a series of five small villages set amid a stretch of rocky coastline. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. A walkway connects the towns, reminiscent of the days when, besides by boat, it was the only way to travel from one to another. Sections of the walk are occasionally closed due to landslides, as this is very steep and rocky terrain. Since there is a small entry fee to the walkway, you will be advised of closings at the start of your walk. If a particular section is closed, you can hop on a train, which in many spots runs parallel to the walkway, to get to the next town. The train, which runs frequently, only takes a few minutes to go from one town to the next. Each village has its own personality, although all are very small and picturesque. The towns are frequently described as “vertical”, so be prepared for some steep street climbing. The best perspective to view the towns is from the sea. You won’t find any resorts in this area, just plenty of B & B’s and pensiones. Our room in Riomaggiore, the furthest south of the five towns, was basic but adequate. The views from our spacious terrace, either up the steep mountainside or down to the tiny harbor and the sea below, however, were priceless.

On the Via del Amore, which is the name of the one mile-long path between the towns of Riomaggiore and Manarola, is a lone restaurant perched high above the sparkling Mediterranean, seemingly suspended in mid-air. Stop here to sample a few local favorites; octopus, scampi or delicious fresh sardines, or just enjoy a glass of wine or an espresso. This is the perfect spot to pause for a food break and to take in the incredible natural beauty that continues to draw visitors from around the world.

Photo: courtesy Bob Pirillo
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