EUROPE - IRELAND - SOUTH : HISTORIC ICONS GALORE
by Ursula & Eldrid Retief







It’s really no wonder that Ireland South has captured the hearts of tourists for over 250 years. Put it like this: this part of the Emerald Isle simply has more than its fair share of tourist icons, both natural and man-made.

Rich in legend and lore, it is home to the lakes of Killarney, to Blarney Castle where the Blarney Stone is waiting to be kissed, to Waterford with its famed crystal, to the craggy Ring of Kerry tourist trail, to The Skelligs, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and home to the Rock of Cashel in Co. Tipperary.

These are just some of the drawcard icons – as a bonus there are the picturesque villages dominated by craftsmen where leather workers, potters and jewellers ply their trades, the traditional pubs, the endless festivals, the sunny beaches, the gourmet delights, and golf courses of world renown like Ballybunion and the Old Head of Kinsale.

We drove south from Dublin (an icon itself .... think heritage, Shaw and Wilde, Guinness, lively pubs, and music), heading for the rolling green hills of Co. Carlow and Altamont House and Gardens, an enchanting blend of ornamental gardens and lakeside walks.

Next stop was Co. Kilkenny, home to celebrated craft trails, workshops and artists’ studios along with castles and abbeys, ancient burial sites and rock formations. At the heart of Kilkenny City, Ireland’s medieval capital with its narrow slipways, is Kilkenny Castle, a 12th century castle remodeled in Victorian times and set in extensive parklands. Overlooking the River Nore, it has guarded this important river crossing for more than 900 years.

From Kilkenny the drive through the Nore Valley took us through villages and towns like Bennettsbridge, an internationally renowned centre for craft and design, Thomastown, originally an old Anglo Norman walled settlement, and the beautiful village of Inistioge.

Then it was on to Co. Tipperary and the historic Rock of Cashel, a spectacular collection of medieval buildings on a large outcrop of limestone rock with a castle, a cathedral, a round tower and the remains of two churches, dating back to 1014 AD. The Rock of Cashel served as the traditional seat of the Kings of Munster for several hundred years prior to the Norman invasion, though few remnants of the early structures survive. The complex is one of the most remarkable collections of Celtic art and medieval architecture to be found anywhere in Europe.

Co. Waterford’s picturesque coastline is dotted with a string of lively towns. The ancient port of Waterford, shaped by the Vikings in the 9th century is today a cosmopolitan city with modern shopping centres, traditional pubs and trendy restaurants side by side with well-preserved remnants of the ancient past.

Waterford Crystal Visitor Centre promises and delivers a magical journey reflecting on 200 years of glass making history. On a tour of the production process, guides relate the enthralling stories of romance, myth and legend that have inspired Waterford’s classic collections such as Seahorse, Lismore, Colleen and Dolmen. You have the opportunity to become one of the millions of people who celebrated the Millennium Eve in Times Square, New York .... the now world famous Millennium Ball was designed and created by Waterford Crystal, and an exact replica of the Ball itself, measuring 6ft. in diameter is on display here. Browse through the tempting shop. Diane Woods of Ontario, Canada, probably summed up the experience the most succinctly: “WOW!” she wrote in the guestbook.

Before heading further south we made a short detour east to Wexford for a quick look at the Irish National Heritage Park ..... three hours later we had been given a comprehensive glimpse into Ireland's past. The Park depicts man’s settlement in Ireland from 7000 BC to the arrival of the Normans in the 12th-century, the homesteads, places of ritual, burial modes arranged in chronological order in a fabulous wood- and wetlands setting.

On the way down the coast we dropped in on the Jameson Heritage Centre in Midleton, 12 miles east of Cork City where this famous Irish whiskey is made, before making our way to the popular holiday resort of Kinsale.

Sheltered by the hills, many of its centuries-old houses still standing, Kinsale is known for its gourmet restaurants, traditional bars, maze of narrow streets, shops and galleries, and leisure activities like yachting, sea angling, and golf. Its harbour is still guarded by Charles Fort, a star-shaped fortress built in the 17th century.

Kinsale's International Museum of Wine, housed in Desmond Castle, a 15th century Customs House, tells the romantic story of the Irish emigrants who colonized the wine trade throughout the world after being forced to leave their own shores.

We passed through Cork City but didn’t stop to ring the bells of its most famous building, the church tower of Shandon ..... which you can if you have the time and the inclination.

Although the Blarney Stone at Blarney Castle in delightful Blarney Village, about 8 km northwest from Cork city, is said to give the gift of eloquence to all who kiss it, there’s a physical price to pay. The Stone hangs precariously over empty space five storeys up at the top of the Castle. Comfortingly, there’s a burly attendant (and an official photographer) to help. You sit with your back towards the stone, lean far back and downward into an abyss while grasping the iron rails beside you (trying not to recall the legend that a pilgrim once toppled down), then lower yourself until your head is level with the Stone to be kissed. Nor is this a good moment to recall that many thousands of tourists over the years have touched their lips to the same spot.

Also in the Blarney Castle grounds is the elegant Blarney House, a family home in 1874 now restored to its former glory; the Rock Close with its druidic connotations; a walk around Blarney Lake and beautifully maintained gardens.

And finally to Co. Kerry with its sublime scenery, Its craggy coastline a series of peninsulas that open out into larger bays. Follow the Ring of Kerry route for the best this awe-inspiring landscape offers.

On the south-western coast, The Skelligs are two islands rising sheer out of the Atlantic, five miles off the coast. For 600 years Skellig Michael, the larger of the two islands, was an important centre of monastic life for Irish Christian monks. An Irish Celtic monastery, built in 588, is perched almost at the summit of the 230-metre-high rock. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is one of Europe's better known but least accessible monasteries.

From Killarney, local bus tours circle the magnificent MacGillycuddy Reeks mountain range through its many passes and valleys along the Atlantic shores of Dingle Bay and Kenmare Bay. Picturesque villages such as Glenbeigh, Waterville and Sneem dot the route.

The Killarney National Park, 10,000 hectares (24,700 acres) of mountains, woods and lakes, has as its focal point Muckross House, a magnificent Victorian mansion and one of Ireland’s leading stately homes. Muckross House, some 6km from Killarney town centre, is also home to a number of skilled craftworkers who can be seen using traditional skills in the crafts of weaving, bookbinding and pottery.

At the Muckross Traditional Farms you can take a stroll down memory lane and meet and chat with the farmers and their wives as they go about their daily work using traditional methods.

On the shore of Killarney's Lower Lake, in an enchanted setting, is Ross Castle, a perfect example of a 15th-century chieftain’s stronghold, but one which has lowered its defences to welcome thousands of visitors every year.

Count us among them – and among those tourist hearts captivated by Ireland South.

Photo: courtesy Tourism Ireland






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