AUSTRALASIA - TAHITI: MEETING THE FRENCH POODLES OF THE SHARK WORLD
by Ursula & Eldrid Retief



Donned in snorkelling gear, we’re lined up along a taut rope as the Polynesian guide hands us morsels of bait. Within seconds, myriad of tiny Technicolor fish are nibbling it from our fingers.

Hearts miss a beat as the Mauri sharks, attracted by the action, sidle over. The guide handfeeds them, no more than a meter or so from us.

It’s not exactly the re-enactment of Jaws but a quiver of adrenaline nevertheless courses through our veins.

One of the most sought-after excursion on the Regent Seven Seas Paul Gauguin in French Polynesia is the Shark and Ray Feeding adventure excursion near Bora Bora.

An outrigger speed canoe takes us from the Paul Gauguin to the sharks’ feeding ground. The Mao Mauri (or black-tipped shark) is an inseparable part of the submarine scenery of Tahiti. They’re small and fairly harmless, an officer told us: “They’re the French poodles of the shark world.” We took that with a pinch of salt at the time.

But we find out they are indeed harmless. Their teeth are small, fine and triangular. They’re wary of humans and if they come too close you easily scare them by slapping the water or blowing air bubbles at them.

From breakfast with the sharks, the outrigger takes us to another spot where we step into turquoise water so crystal-clear that you can see your toes as you wiggle them. There’s a sudden whoop from one of the swimmers as a gentle stingray glides past. Before we know what’s happening, we’re surrounded by 14 of these gentle creatures, some even coming out of the water to gulp the fish held by the guide.

The Paul Gauguin excursions give you a wonderful insight into the life and scenery of the islands. Swaying palms, sugar-white beaches and extravagantly turquoise lagoons, with necklaces of tiny islets, teeming with rainbows of tropical fish. These are not simply the dreamlike images of a South Seas tropical paradise – they are the realities of the Society Islands, one of French Polynesia’s five archipelagos (some 118 islands and atolls).

The islands are wonderfully unspoiled, although you might not think so at your first stop, Papeete, the capital on the biggest island Tahiti. It’s a bustling city. The moment you’ve booked into your hotel hop on the inimitable Le Truck. It’s the local public transportation system. They’re converted trucks, all privately owned, many gaily painted and with lively Tahitian music. Fares are low and authorised stops are indicated by a blue sign with a drawing of Le Truck. Just wave to the driver to stop.

Le Truck begin and end their roundtrips at the centre of Papeete at le marche, the municipal market, the air heavily scented with the aroma of tropical flowers and fruit. Much of the floral scent comes from the national flower, the Tiare Tahiti, a gardenia which forms the basis of the traditional “lei” wreath, part of the greeting tradition for arriving visitors and returning family. Upstairs are the handicraft stalls with souvenirs of shell leis, woven hats, scarves, belts, sarongs, straw hats and wooden bowls, necklaces, purses and belts made of shells.

And everywhere is the legendary black pearl. French Polynesia is one of the few places in the world where they’re grown, varying from pale (least expensive) to dark grey with touches of green or pink (most expensive).

Take a drive around the coastline of Tahiti for some dazzling views including the triple Faarumai waterfalls and the Arahoho Blowhole where an old lava tube shoots a geyser of seawater into the air. On the drive you’ll come across the Harrison Smith Botanical Gardens and the Paul Gauguin Museum with copies of the artist’s works and documents, and photographs from his time there. You can comfortably spend a few hours at the Museum of Tahiti and Her Islands.

If you are not on the Paul Gauguin, the inter-island ferry will take you from Papeete to lush, serene Huahine, an island of unspoiled pastoral beauty and archaeological riches, including ancient marae, stone shrines dedicated to ancient gods. Huahine is often referred to as an “open-air museum”.

Here the principal village of Fare slumbers under the shade of almond and acacia trees. It is here, on a Sunday morning, following the directions of a few locals that we find ourselves at a local church service. There’s really no need to ask the way. You’ll hear the singing from some distance. It is crowded when we arrive, but room is quickly made for us. The singing is magnificent but the real charm of the service is that it is a family outing, with people coming and going all the time and children playing in the aisles.

A short sailing away is Raiatea, revered by the Tahitians as the birthplace of their religion and culture, the sacred island where all the gods were born. A partially paved road circles the island, winding through fertile valleys and wide flatlands, past farms and orchards.

Had we the energy we could have climbed to the top of Mount Temehani for a glimpse of the rare tiare apetahi which will grow no place else on earth. Here in Raiatea firewalkers still dance. You could float the tranquil river Faaroa on an outrigger canoe, a canopy of ferns, jungle orchids and vanilla overhead. It is from this point that the original Maoris set off in their long outrigger canoes for New Zealand and Hawaii.

Raiatea’s sister island, Tahaa, is almost untouched by the 20th century, with spectacular bays carved from verdant hills.

Bora Bora is home to over 4,000, surrounded by the most stunning lagoon in the Pacific, its crystalline blue water teeming with brightly-hued fish.

There is only one navigable pass through the lagoon, facing the principal village of Vaitape. There is only one main street. Rent a bicycle or a car to tour the island at your own pace. A 29km partially-paved road circles the island, passing colourful villages, archaeological sites and old Army bunkers and some of the cannons left by the US Navy during World War II, now claimed by the island’s tropical vegetation.

Then there’s Moorea, Tahiti’s heart-shaped sister just 17 kilometres across the Sea of the Moon and the lotus land of every sailor’s dream, with its jagged peaks, home to Mt. Mou’a-roa, the needle-shaped mountain better known as Bali Hai, deep gorges and waterfalls, and lagoons teeming with yet more colourful fish.

A trip around the island gives you a chance to look at the pineapple fields, coffee plantations and crystalline lagoons. We drive to the Belvedere lookout point – used in both film versions of “Mutiny on the Bounty” – for a breathtaking panoramic view of the two bays, Cook’s Bay and Opunohu Bay. The volcanic peaks, reflected in the tranquil waters of the two bays rise like jagged shark’s teeth.

The Moorea fruit juice distillery processes island-grown fruits and visitors can sample the juices, liqueurs and spirits.

One of the best ways to see the islands is on a four-wheel drive tour, crashing through the jungle. Big game fishing, water skiing, snorkeling, scuba diving, sailing and windsurfing are available everywhere and of course on Paul Gauguin excursions.

Robinson Crusoe never had it so good – although Gauguin himself probably did and those on the ms Paul Gauguin certainly do.

Photo courtesy Balázs Metzger
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