AUSTRALASIA - NEW ZEALAND: SURFING THROUGH NEW ZEALAND
by Ursula & Eldrid Retief



There are claims by travellers that New Zealand is made up of "the two most beautiful islands in the world".

They’re not far off the mark.

But don’t take my word for it.

The proof rests with your mouse as it scampers over New Zealand’s website – a journey that will give you a glimpse of the people, places, activities and spectacular scenery of its islands.

Chances are your website vacation, echoed in reality, would start in Auckland, the vibrant "City of Sails", an urban cityscape set off by expansive parklands and surrounded by water. From here you can take ferry trips, cruises, sailboat jaunts or catamaran excursions to suburbs like charming Devonport, or to many of the 40 islands of the Hauraki Gulf.

Not too far away are the great beaches, craft shops and vineyards of magical Waiheke Island; you can climb the brooding cone of uninhabited Rangitoto Island; or explore the native bush and wildlife on Great Barrier Island.

Sightseeing in Auckland starts at one of its leading attractions, Sky City (a huge casino and entertainment complex including a 700-seat live theatre) and its Sky Tower – at 328 metres taller than the Eiffel Tower. There are stunning, panoramic views of this beautiful city from the glass-fronted elevators which take you to the four observation decks, including the "crows nest" Sky Deck. You can even "jump" off the Sky Tower. The Sky Jump, unlike bungy jumping, offers a cabled descent, feet first, from the outdoor observation deck of Sky Tower to the ground. At 192 metres, it’s the highest tower-based jump available to the public in the world.

The sub-tropical Northland with the Bay of Islands is a land of rolling, sometimes rugged countryside, typical New Zealand country towns, tidal estuaries and mangroves, sparkling, island-studded bays, long silvery beaches and pockets of lush forest.

You can head south, through the thermal wonders of Rotorua, past the tranquil Lake Taupo to the Tongariro National Park for great hiking trips in volcanic terrain.

Rotorua is probably New Zealand’s best-known holiday destination. Generations of visitors have enjoyed its soothing waters and Maori hospitality. For a taste of its early days, stay at Princes Gate, a lovely boutique hotel and an historic attraction in itself. Originally built in Waihi in 1897, it was dismantled piece by piece, numbered and bullocked to the railroad in 1917 to be reconstructed at its present prime position.

Rotorua sits on the Pacific rim of fire – exploding geysers, bubbling mud pools, colourful crystal formations and eerie steam vents are stark reminders of the volcanic activity that has created the valleys, mountains and giant springs of water in centuries past. There are 13 major lakes and numerous rivers and streams offering boating, swimming, sunbathing, rafting, whitewater sledding and luging.

The soothing hot mineral water springs, known for their remedial properties and used for centuries by the Maoris for cooking and bathing, are a huge drawcard.

Rotorua is still the best place to learn about the Maori culture, both traditional and contemporary. Tamaki Tours took us for the evening to "Te Tawa Ngahere Pa", its Maori village. En route our guide instructed us on the rules and regulations governing a "Marae". When you enter these sacred places it is customary for the welcoming tribe to send out a challenge of peace. The warrior goes through movements and recites chants until the peace offering is placed in front of the visiting tribe. As such we had to have a "chief" to accept the peace offering. A reluctant "volunteer" was shoved forward to do his stuff.

It was the start to a journey back in time as the village came alive with tribal songs, dances and activities. We were witness to an emotional experience of myths and legends, a night of truly authentic, traditional culture and entertainment which ended with a wonderful feast of foods cooked the traditional Maori way on hot stones in an authentic earthen oven.

On the way down to the nation’s capital, Wellington (on the road, by rail, by air or by website), you won’t want to miss Napier, New Zealand’s fascinating Art Deco City in the Hawke’s Bay area. Its unique early 1930s architecture has attracted world-wide acclaim.

Following a disastrous earthquake and fire which ravaged the region in 1931, Napier bravely rebuilt in the styles then currently fashionable overseas – Stripped Classical, Spanish Mission and above all, Art Deco. It can now claim to have the largest concentration of Art Deco buildings in the world, well-preserved or beautifully restored. Interesting and informative guided Art Deco walks are provided by the local Art Deco Trust which has done a wonderful job preserving, enhancing and promoting Napier’s buildings.

We even ran into Bertie. Dressed as an archetypical silly ass fop of the 1920s in boater and blazer, Bertie entertains and delights walkers with his off-the-cuff banter.

Wellington, right at the bottom tip of the North Island, is the centre of New Zealand’s cultural life and the jumping off point to the South Island.

Its transformation from what was perceived as a dreary government centre to a vibrant urban destination is still in full swing. Over $2-billion has been spent in Wellington on huge projects like the Lambton Harbour waterfront development which has made Wellington’s stunning harbour an exciting drawcard, an international airport terminal, a multi-purpose 40,000-seat stadium, an inner city wildlife conservation park and of course Te Papa, its major attraction.

Te Papa is not your average museum. The $300-million showpiece of New Zealand’s treasures on the magnificent Wellington waterfront wonderfully combines leisure park techniques with museum artifacts.

If you cross Cook Strait by ferry from Wellington, your first stop on the South Island will probably be Marlborough, a region of fertile, fruit-producing valleys and great stretches of unspoiled wilderness, an area of sandy beaches and apple orchards, of wine and whales, of trampers and trout, a place where alpine flora meets subtropical vegetation and glaciers flow towards the sea.

Heading South the fascinating destinations come in quick succession: Christchurch, a classical English city famed for its Gothic architecture, tree-lined avenues, exquisite gardens and lovely parks; Dunedin, world famous for its wildlife, scenery and its treasure trove of Victorian and Edwardian architecture; and Queenstown, a year-round lake-side resort set among marvellous lakes, glorious mountains, sweeping bays and deeply etched fjords.

This is the launch pad for the dramatic Doubtful and Milford Sounds. In this neck of the woods, at the bottom of the South Island, if you’re into something a bit more exciting you can test your mettle at bungy jumping, whitewater rafting or jetboating along raging rivers that shoot through towering canyons.

After your vicarious New Zealand website holiday, get yourself there.

There’s nothing like the real thing.

Photo courtesy New Zealand Tourism Board
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